predominantly in Calcutta but other neighbouring states also celebrate it and I visited another impressive pandal in Ranchi. Calcutta’s buildings were, on my arrival, adorned with many lights and the streets throbbed with people all in pre-festival mood. It meant potential difficulties reaching Howrah Station from the Broadway Hotel where I stayed but, inevitably, the 4km journey only took twenty minutes over the impressively lit Howrah Bridge and I was there far too early for my overnight train to Jharkand’s capital, Ranchi. Two hours. Four hours when there was a two hour delay... A friend of Melvin’s, nicknamed Mithu – literally sweet – was on the train and he lived up to his name by recognising me, having a chat and being very helpful and friendly.

One advantage of the delay was an arrival in Ranchi at 9.30am which, with the 24 hour check in check out system operated by some hotels, meant that I could get up a bit later the next morning and have a welcome lie-in. I stayed in the excellent Hotel Accord just 1km from the Railway Station and it was very comfortable and the staff extremely friendly. All told, everyone in Ranchi was very hospitable and the place was orderly and tidy. A few years ago, Jharkand and Bihar would probably not be on the list of many tourists but a lot of work has been done, I’m told, and I not only felt extremely comfortable but thoroughly enjoyed my stay. It is also the home town of one Mahendra Singh Dhoni and, yes, I did have a quick peep to see his house and how the other half live...

I felt a sore throat coming on so visited a pharmacist and came out with enough pills for an army but, fair play to the guy, the sore throat went and didn’t produce a cold and, within thirty six hours, I felt 100%.